Westward Ho! wasn’t originally a place but a book, written by the author Charles Kingsley in 1855. The popularity of the novel inspired Victorian entrepreneurs to build a village to profit from the increased interest in visiting the western coast, and the craze for sea bathing. It’s the only place in England with an exclamation mark after its name and one of only two in the world (Saint-Louis-du-Ha! Ha! In Quebec is the other, just in case you fancy a giggle…).

Today Westward Ho! still welcomes thousands of tourists to its beautiful stretches of clean, golden sands and perfect surfing waters each year. When I visited last spring, the place was looking a little tired – but telltale building works back then signposted what I would find when I returned this year with my husband. A £5 million facelift has given the swathe of the seafront a new lease of life, bringing luxury penthouses, apartments, shops and restaurants to stand proudly alongside the beautiful natural beach.

Thank goodness, too, that the redevelopment hasn’t engulfed the town’s existing delights, and just across the road you can still sample the delights of a tea and cake stop at Tea on the Green. Just to clarify – it isn’t actually on a green (this fooled us when we were looking for it) – it is so-named because it’s on a Golf Links Road, which backs onto the Royal North Devon golf course. Opened in 1864, the course is the oldest in England that is still played along its original fairways, and it’s been greatly admired by golfers through the ages, including Bernard Darwin, author of The Golf Courses of the British Isles. He said: “To go to Westward Ho! is not to make a mere visit of pleasure as to any ordinary course. It is, as is the case of a few other great links, a reverent pilgrimage.”

Even at 3 o’clock in the afternoon, in the middle of winter, Tea on the Green is almost full, but we squeeze onto a little table amidst kitsch teatime paraphernalia, floral cushions, cheery bunting and fairy lights. A vintage teapot in the shape of an old-fashioned petrol pump and another in the shape of a ship, perched side-by-side on a high shelf, catch my eye. We admire walls and placemats decked with glamorous movie stars from the golden age of Hollywood.

The busy nature of the place is heartening. It’s a real favourite with locals as well as visitors and the discerning Westward Ho!-ian knows that the homemade cakes like grandma used to make and generously sized portions make Tea on the Green well worth a wait. If there really is no chance of a table in the height of the season then why not take away your goodies and enjoy out in the sunshine? Just watch out for those pesky seagulls.

We’re so busy admiring the decor that the first time owner Mark approaches us to take our order we haven’t even glanced at the extensive menu. With milkshakes and hot chocolates in a grand array of flavours, sweet and savoury cream teas, Ploughman's platters, grilled sandwiches and paninis, soups and salads and a kid’s menu, you really are spoilt for choice. That’s without even mentioning the dessert cabinet overflowing with cakey creations, meringues, tarts and more – all homemade on the premises.

After much deliberation, I opt for a festive “It’s Not Terry’s, it’s mine!” hot chocolate – I may have been influenced by viewing The Vicar of Dibley over the Christmas holidays – and my husband chooses a Hazelnut Latte. We add two cupcakes because, well, it would be rude not to sample some of the delicious fare.

A huge mug of scrummy chocolate drink arrives in a Cornish blue and white striped cup topped with lashings (and I mean lashings) of squirty cream, marshmallows and chocolate accompaniments.

A huge mug of scrummy chocolate drink arrives in a Cornish blue and white striped cup topped with lashings (and I mean lashings) of squirty cream, marshmallows and chocolate accompaniments. This is the “mini deluxe” – order a regular at your peril! My drink was so huge I had to take my cupcake home with me. Wrapping it up was no problem for the friendly staff at this lovely establishment and I polished it off the following day when it was still deliciously moist and topped with truly scrumptious buttercream.

All the food at Tea on the Green is locally sourced and I hear great things about their scones if you fancy a real Devon cream tea. Choose from the delicious-sounding Hepburn, Grant, Taylor, Sinatra or Hepworth depending on the size of your tea – and whether you fancy sweet or savoury.

Like Darwin’s reverent visit to the nearby golf course, if you are a fan of something sweet in the afternoon, or a toastie for lunch, then a pilgrimage to Tea on the Green is more than a pleasure – it’s a must!

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