When I rang to book a table on a grotty January Monday afternoon, the buzz of diners in the background was so loud the waitress struggled to hear me. Not so unusual in a London eaterie perhaps, but definitely more so in a peaceful fishing village in the far west of Cornwall. But it’s not surprising – this fabulous little restaurant, tucked in a corner of oh-so-pretty Porthleven, really is the bees’ knees.
The food here is spectacular – think spankingly fresh and locally sourced produce cooked simply with a brilliant flair for combining exquisite flavours. Out celebrating with friends, none of us had an average meal. My starter was a pretty plate of sweetly flaked crab served with gravadlax, pickled veg, horseradish cream and homemade bread. Two friends had a splendiferous French onion soup whilst another had a plate which can only be described as an ode to pork – tasty morsels cooked in many different ways including pulled pork and black pudding. Mains didn’t disappoint either with roast venison (cooked to perfection), hake served with mussels, a hearty beef stew and rib eye steak. These sound like simple fare, but don’t be fooled – each was a work of culinary art, paired with veggie accompaniments so divine my otherwise garrulous friends were reduced to a dreamy silence.
And dessert....being rather fond of all things cacao, I opted for a creamy malted milk parfait served with a coffee-specked brownie and a rich-beyond-rich chocolate ganache. My other sweet-toothed friend took a ride on the orange train with a citrusy plate of delights – intense orange jelly, syllabub, ice cream and burnt sugar meringue which came together beautifully. The others, being of a more fromage bent, opted for a shared plate of excellent Cornish cheeses and port.
The restaurant was packed to the rafters and the diners happy. If there was a little wait for the starters it didn’t really matter – with stunning harbour views, a great atmosphere and friendly staff this is a great little spot.
Take a look at our luxury retreats in West Cornwall.
thesquareatporthleven.co.uk | 01326 573911 | 7 Fore Street, Porthleven, Cornwall TR13 9HQ