Elegantly set on the banks of Loch Dunvegan, this gloriously lovely restaurant is a must for any holiday in Skye, whilst for special occasions a visit to the Kitchen Table is a must, which is what we did on a beautiful August evening one Friday.
Pulling up outside The Three Chimneys, we took a moment to gaze at the pretty white building, perfectly set amongst the lush green wilderness and the deep blue of the Loch’s water. Opening the small gate we walked to the entrance, where we were cheerfully greeted by the maître d' and immediately led through the kitchen to the private dining table.
The Three Chimneys has been in existence for thirty five years, drawing on the immense natural bounty that the Isle of Skye offers. Influenced by Scottish and Nordic cuisine, Chef Scott, who has been with the restaurant for seven years, takes these ingredients to culinary heights, taking guests on a narrative that’s truly memorable.
The Kitchen Table experience is a communal one for up to eight people, and we were soon joined by three other couples. Our friendly host for the evening gave us a warm welcome and explained the menu of eight dishes written down for us, focussing on dishes from the land and sea, offering us a wine flight menu too if we wanted to. As we had a busy day the next day, we opted for a cocktail – I had the Talisker Negroni whilst Tammy chose the Strawberry Shrub – both delicious and oh-so grown up.
First up on the menu: bread. Honestly the tastiest bread I’ve ever had, accompanied by a selection of flavoured butters. Appetite well and truly awakened, our first dish was a trio of Loch Carron oysters, served in three different ways; natural, dressed, and cooked – each just as delicious as the other and the epitome of the sea.
Next up, accompanied by the chef that created it, dressed double dived scallops with roe, tomato consume and dill. Togue-tingling, fresh, and oh-so-yummy, it was my first foray into raw scallops. What does ‘double dived’ mean you may ask (like we did). Scallops are fished from deeper waters on Loch Sligachan and ‘finished’ in shallower waters, where the plankton is thicker and the scallops can feed and achieve their full potential, giving a higher yield and a better taste - the whole process takes over two years.
The next dish to be presented was cured monkfish tail served with sour cream ice cream, peas (in several ways), and cockle ketchup. Chilled and refreshing, it was a light dish that tasted of spring.
Followed with a flourish was Loch Dunvegan crab and langoustines, fished literally on the doorstep. Served with Skye black pickled fennel, crab ketchup and hazelnuts, it was delicious, the langoustines char-grilled on the outside and uncooked in the middle, a unique dish.
The final fish dish is Wester Ross salmon, cooked in pork fat confit and served with chawanmushi, a kind of savoury Japanese custard, and burnt cucumber. A highly unusual, umami-filled dish that split opinion around the table, but I loved it.
Next on to the meat dishes, first up, the head chef’s take on a wood pigeon club sandwich with baby gem, bacon jam and devil sauce. Completely deconstructed to really appreciate the flavours, this was a gamey delight, with a whisper of autumn about it.
Our final savoury dish was Vatten Farm hogget, which is an older lamb, served three ways and accompanied by ricotta-stuffed courgette flowers and red pepper. The hogget was delicious and cooked to perfection, whilst the silky-smooth homemade ricotta, sublime.
Enjoying a much-needed break (to undo waist buttons and expand belts by a notch or two), we sat and chatted to our companions, a couple from New York and a group of four from Chicago. Some of us got up and went to chat to the chefs, who happily answered questions whilst they worked.
On to our final course, and a highlight for me; a stunning, cloud-soft rice pudding souffle served with Glendale blackcurrants (just up the road), mealie (like oatmeal) ice cream and ginger biscuit, plus a lovely custard.
Just when we thought we were done, the pastry chef brought us all a little wooden box, housing petit fours of a mini macaron, Scottish fudge, and a fruit jelly. Utterly delicious and the perfect end to the meal.
The Three Chimneys is passionate about introducing guests to the very best of Skye cuisine, where each ingredient is carefully sourced and you can tell they have an excellent relationship with local suppliers, from the super-fresh, high-quality seafood to the smallest ingredient – salt. Check out their website and there’s plenty of detail on every producer they use.
A visit to The Three Chimneys is an absolute must for any holiday taken in Skye, and the Kitchen Table Experience is the ultimate treat for any foodie. Please note that the Kitchen Table Tasting Menu doesn’t cater for dietary requirements as the menu is carefully curated in advance and is dictated by the produce that comes through the door. Vegetarians and vegans would be better to enjoy a meal in the main restaurant, which is equally stunning.
This is a truly memorable experience and one we’ll never forget. Whether you’re celebrating a special occasion or simply wanting to indulge, a night at the Kitchen Table is a must for unique, innovative, and most importantly scrumptious Skye cuisine.
Feeling inspired? Take a look at our luxury cottages on the Isle of Skye here.
The Three Chimneys, Colbost, Dunvegan, Isle of Skye |01470 511 258 | www.threechimneys.co.uk
