Lochside Magic at Fern Cottage

Excited for our magical winter escape to Fern Cottage, a retreat of dreams settled on the Isle of Mull, we meandered through undulating Scottish country scenes and crystal-clear lochs until we found the quaint port town of Oban, where we embarked on our ferry trip over to island. After a brief hour we arrived at Craignure, and it wasn’t long before we were in Tobermory, a town famous for its rainbow-coloured abodes. We stepped out of the car to see sheer magic taking place in the sky above us. Lighting the idyllic harbour, was the faintest glimpse of the Aurora Borealis. We stood for a while taking in the mesmeric scenes before heading into Macgochan’s, a cosy red-fronted pub settled just next to Tobermory’s famous whisky distillery.

Finding a snug corner table, we perused the menu and opted for salt and vinegar laced scampi and chips. As we tucked in, an ensemble of softly-spoken locals huddled together with their musical instruments and played soothing songs beside the flickering fireplace.

Driving through inky darkness after our late supper, we finally arrived at Fern Cottage, nestled on a far-flung corner of Mull’s island. Warmly welcomed by Fern’s soft, orange glow glittering against the pitch-black night sky, we made our way through crunchy leaves and stepped inside. With rustic interior touches and a bold but dreamy colour palette in the living space, we were greeted by complete cottage luxury. Charmed by every characterful touch, we began exploring to find our bedrooms.

There were two equally dreamy boudoirs to discover; the first was the master bedroom with pastel-pink walls and notes of avocado-green, whilst the second was dressed in a darling combination of blue and rusty hues with a super-king zip-and-link bed – perfect for flexible sleeping arrangements. After a lengthy day of travelling, we chose our desired room and cosied down for the night. 

Feeling bright-eyed after a dreamlike slumber, we rose at daybreak to make the most of unadulterated Lochside vistas. Opening the porch door, we were greeted by our next-door neighbour’s curious but friendly peacock who had made himself at home on the lawn. Strolling a little further down the road with our cameras in hand, we came across a lone seal pup resting freely on the shore. Gazing over Loch Spelve’s calm waters surrounded by nothing but rugged wilderness, we found ourselves in Hebridean heaven.

We spent the morning drifting along the nearby sandy beaches before we set about exploring the island by car. With a single-track road covering around three hundred square miles, the only option was to take the scenic route. On the hunt for furry highland cows, snacking on buttery Scottish shortbread kindly gifted in our welcome hamper, we found the wildest, most remote fringes of the Isle. Around every rugged corner, new postcard-worthy scenes emerged.

From faraway mainland mountains powdered with snow and atmospheric hillsides speckled with lambing sheep, to lone croft houses topped with weathered red roofs, an image so synonymous with rural Scotland, every hidden corner was truly ethereal.

Like dots in the distance in a faraway field, we finally found a small herd of highland cows. Completely serene, we could hear nothing but a faint breeze as we watched them graze. Continuing along the road to Fionnport, we caught a glimpse of Iona, a nearby island surrounded by tropical white sands. As the evening began to draw in, we returned to our cosy off-grid bolthole, spotting a cluster of stags along the way.

Settled down for the evening with warm mugs of tea, we browsed the record collection at the cottage. With the sounds of a crackling fire and the soft croons of Fleetwood Mac filling the room, we delighted in this soul-soothing moment as the rain began to fall.

Our final morning was spent perched in the kitchen window, admiring sleepy-eyed sheep and savouring buttery toast topped with sweet blackberry jam before the mist rolled in – a breakfast we’ll daydream over long after leaving our Lochside hideaway. Spending one last afternoon discovering unseen parts of Scotland’s countryside, we left the comfort of the cottage for our journey back to the ferry port.

As we sailed gently along the water, we said our goodbyes to the enchanting Isle of Mull, which appeared even more enchanting when sun-kissed by golden hour.

For the aimless wanderers and adventure seekers yearning for heavenly staycation moments, let your wildest travel reveries take you to the edges of Scotland, where untold luxury and Lochside solitude awaits at Fern Cottage.

Feeling inspired? Uncover the magic of Fern Cottage here.