The evening had wrapped its low autumn light around Mousehole when my parents and I arrived at Crabbers one Friday evening. An atmospheric start to a heavenly homestay for the weekend, this was the only excuse we needed to settle straight in. Parking on the quay in the centre of the picturesque oceanside village, we watched boats and lights dance on the harbour water in greeting, before turning away and walking the few steps to the front door of our awaiting abode.
Opening the door, a flush of gentle warmth welcomed us inside, where timeless cottage interiors framed inviting rooms and underfloor heating warmed our footsteps. On the left, the traditional kitchen was the sweetest sight, with stunning period features seamlessly combining with modern accoutrements. At the centre of the kitchen, a rustic farmhouse table took pride of place in front of a wood burning stove and was topped with a garden-fresh bouquet of flowers and a generous hamper of artisan delights. A towel and bowl had even been left for our two dogs who were joining us on our halcyon homestay.
On the right, a sumptuous lounge resided beneath painted beams and promised divine moments of tranquillity with two large armchairs, a sofa and another wood burning stove. Meanwhile, an enchanted introduction upstairs revealed two heaven-sent bedrooms and a beautiful bathroom. In the latter, a large walk-in shower and a deep bathtub beckoned for refreshment and drawn-out bubble-topped soaks.
From my sea-view room, the hypnotic sound of the waves just beyond the sill was almost enough to entice me outside for ocean-gazing on the pebble-strewn cove, washed silver by the bright face of the moon. That said, with bags unpacked and atmosphere set, the crackle of the kitchen’s wood burning stove and the pop of a Champagne cork made for the only temptation needed to stay inside instead…
After a restful sleep cocooned in the softest linens, night eventually turned to a dusky morning, with thick clouds fluffing up their feathers on the horizon. Slowly waking up to the lullabying sound of water lapping at the shore just moments away, the break of day came gently and unhurried. A breakfast of hot tea and buttered toast followed by a soothing soak in the bath made for a luxuriously revitalising start ahead of the day’s adventures.
First on the day’s agenda was a walk around Mousehole. Providing us with the perfect opportunity to acquaint ourselves, it unveiled many of the local gems hidden amongst the network of narrow lanes and harbourfront streets. Amongst the array were galleries, shops and two delis – one of which was immediately frequented for a hot coffee and pain au chocolat, as well as some fresh, local ingredients for dinner later that day.
Following the flow of footpaths, our meandering led us to Mousehole’s open-air seawater pool overlooking Mounts Bay. Built more than half a century ago, this sheltered pool is rinsed and filled by the ebb and flow of the tide each day and creates a safe spot in which families and cold-water dippers can bathe.
In anticipation of a swim, I had already gathered a towel and swimming costume; however, as the water in the pool was too low with the midway tide, I found a gently shelving cove around the corner instead. Immersed in the tranquil waters of the bay, the sheltered aspect and crystal-clear conditions made for a heavenly experience. And, though my parents were not so taken with the idea themselves, they happily relaxed on the shore with the dogs as I swam.
Once I had towelled off and re-adorned cosy layers, we continued our exploration of Mousehole’s magical realms with a stroll to the old Penlee Lifeboat Station above the village. The lifeboat station is no longer in use but plays an important part of local history. The views from the clifftop are also spectacular, extending all the way across the bay and beyond to the Lizard Peninsula.
Having completed our loop of the village, a quick trip back to the car found us on our way to Lamorna Cove. Just a 10-minute drive from Mousehole, Lamorna is a must-see, renowned for its cultural heritage and connection with pioneering post-impressionist artists of the 20th century. Once home to a famous art colony with some of the country’s most famous names, it was the beloved muse of Samuel John ‘Lamorna’ Birch, Laura and Harold Knight, and Alfred Munnings amongst others – all of whom went on to become leading Royal Academicians.
On another day, a walk along the coast path could have led us in one direction back to Mousehole, and past Tater-du Lighthouse towards Penberth and Porthcurno in the other. However, the day’s pursuits called for a more leisurely pace, so we returned to Mousehole and the lure of The Ship Inn. One of the area’s oldest pubs, The Ship Inn is a wonderful amalgamation of white walls and dark beams, flagstone floors and cosy corners illuminated with fairy lights. A warren of rooms, this dog-friendly pub boasts as much character as bottles behind the bar and is a wonderful place to go for a fireside tipple on an autumn afternoon. Taking a corner seat in the bar below a wall covered with old pictures, time slid by in easy conversation as the light faded from the sky outside.
A slow walk along streets twined with history drew our footsteps back towards Crabbers, where a lit fire and underfloor heating soon blanketed the cottage in slumberous warmth. Nibbles and Champagne were served as our resident in-house ‘chef’ busied away in the kitchen, preparing a mouth-watering repast curated with deli ingredients.
Soon, tiredness worked its way in and the call of the marshmallow-soft beds with Hypnos mattresses beckoned for easy drifting, lulled by the low, rhythmic rumble of the sea.
The next day, dawn arose with an utterly exquisite sunrise cresting between flat-calm sea and a thick bank of clouds. A soft brush stroke had painted a glistening orange stripe through the middle of the sea, rippling and sparkling in the low morning light. The magnetic scene had me quickly slipping from my bed, pushing back the thick duvet and reaching for a swimming costume, ready to greet the day in a perfectly immersive way – a swim in the cove just below the cottage.
With cheeks flushed and body revived, a few paces back to the cottage were rewarded with a delicious welcome. A moreish spread for a magical morning, breakfast swiftly followed with rich coffee from the cafetiere, orange juice topped with ice, and eggs from the welcome hamper, scrambled with butter and served on thick slices of toast.
Satiated, the call of adventure signalled once again. This time, a drive to Marazion promised ten miles of beautiful scenery, with the ocean on one side and the characterful towns and villages of Mounts Bay on the other. Particularly mesmeric, Marazion is renowned for being the home of the legendary St Michael’s Mount and no trip to the area is complete without seeing the fairytale frame of the famous island castle standing tall against the blue horizon. On some days, you can even walk to and from the island across a cobbled causeway at low tide, while, in season you can also enjoy a boat ride to arrive at the island’s historic harbour in style.
For those seeking shoreside strolls, Marazion East Beach is also the perfect place to go for walks with canine companions throughout the year. With this in mind, we made sure a long spell was dedicated to our four-legged counterparts, whose doe-eyes lit up at the swathes of golden sand and shallow streams of water coursing down the beach – just perfect for energetic zoomies and scattering pawprints along the shoreline.
After salt-kissed strolls, a number of cafés await along the coast here with warming treats. In Station Car Park in Marazion, the family-run Jordan’s Café is particularly lovely for its creamy hot chocolates with decadent twists, such as mint chocolate, orange and praline.
Once the dogs were suitably exhausted, a wander around Marazion segued into a walk around neighbouring Penzance. A charming place to explore at leisure, Penzance is one of the best places to visit for its deep-rooted maritime history, subtropical gardens, rolling seafront promenade and Art Deco lido, quirky shops and galleries, and wealth of culinary temptations.
For lunch, a beeline was made to The Artists Residence where a characterful restaurant resides within a striking Georgian townhouse. Home to a bistro, bar, lounge and outdoor terrace garden, it offers a selection of places to dine throughout the week for breakfast, lunch and dinner. While in summer, alfresco meals from the Smokehouse are a veritable treat complemented by botanical-infused beverages, in winter, fireside roasts are a Sunday dream. We arrived in time for the latter and together shared a whole roast beer-can chicken, served with all the classic trimmings and bottomless Yorkshire puddings.
Following the meal, a leg stretch around the town led us past quixotic gems, including the town’s iconic Egyptian house, and boats moored in the harbour. For one final pitstop, we drove over to the base of Trencrom Hill Fort for a short hike. Upon reaching the top, stunning views unfurled across West Cornwall, from Mounts Bay and St Michael’s Mount in the south to Hayle and St Ives Bay in the north.
Finally, with the evening left to unwind at Crabbers, the stunning vistas of the ocean-view garden and the warmth of the beautiful lounge proposed a spellbinding finale to the weekend. Making the most of the divine setting, we drank in the atmosphere and talked into the late evening, sharing favourite anecdotes and planning our return trip to this beautiful pocket of Cornish paradise.
Seeking an unforgettable oceanside sojourn? Book a luxury retreat at Crabbers.
