Boutique Travel Diaries | Penzance

Hidden in the far west of Cornwall at the very end of the UK’s railway line resides the charming market town of Penzance, a coastal treasure where the English Channel meets the Atlantic Ocean, with a rich history adorned with intriguing tales of smugglers and folklore. In the modern day, Penzance continues to enchant, with a bustling local community, historic architecture, and a vibrant art scene. Named by The Times as one of the best places to live by the sea for two years in a row, this insider’s guide explores every enchanting reason why… 

Eating

Namely famous for legendary tales of pirates and bay views of the floating fairytale castle named St Michael’s Mount, Penzance has begun to draw crowds with a recent notoriety as a gourmet hotspot. The town has always been brimming with gastronomic temptations on every quirky corner, from the wholesome and rustic Honey Pot café, The Terrace, well-known for custom sandwiches and flavourful sub rolls and Archie Brown’s on Bread Street, promising to nourish those in pursuit of a healthy lifestyle with wholefoods from their wonderful shop and café.

Tucked away down a small side alley awaits 45 Queen Street, a former furniture warehouse repurposed as a bar and kitchen, now a truly unique setting which has taken the town by storm. Home of Tinture, an organic Cornish, rose-based gin, 45 Queen Street is an atmospheric space with a communal feel, promising rustic interiors with woven lobster pots overhead and feasting-style tables in every corner – each topped with their very own gin bottles, reinvented as candlestick holders for a romantic feel. Their ever-evolving food and drink menu places sustainable and seasonal ingredients at the heart of their dishes, with the majority made to order. We recommend the oyster with house mignonette to start and pasta al limone with burrata for main, whilst the rose Tom Collins makes for a refreshing palette cleanser. 

For an eccentric, interior design-led experience, stroll a little further along Chapel Street where The Artist Residence resides, a boutique Georgian-era hotel promising a wealth of characterful spaces to drink and dine. Seek fireside soirées in the cosy lounge, complete with a flickering wood burning stove, exposed red-brick details, an alpine-cabin style log store, and window-side seating perfect for those in pursuit of spicy chai lattes with a hearty dose of people watching. For sun-soaked suppers in the summer months, retreat to the terraced garden for fare straight from the outdoor Smoke Shack – best savoured with house cocktails and Cornish cider beneath fringed parasols and festoon lighting.

Wander the quaint cobbles of Causeway Head for an unforgettable pastry-led experience at Loafs, a small but stylish bakery with a black tiled façade, eye-catching neon lighting and a window display of heavenly creations, ranging from sourdough loaves and berries and custard-filled croissants, to whipped meringues in pretty pink hues. If you’re in pursuit of snacks of the savoury variety, discover flaky steak pasties, artisan sausage rolls and deli-style ‘sando’s, served Tuesday-Saturday. A visit isn’t complete without the signature ‘Cube of Doom’, available in an assortment of flavours, from sweet Yuzu blueberry with edible flower petals to the sumptuous Miso caramel topped with nougat.

The Granary, a vegetarian wholefoods store promises a dreamy deli counter with an array of takeaway salads, soups and savouries, along with a wide variety of organic fruit and vegetables sourced locally. Perched on the corner of Market Jew Street, The Cornish Hen Delicatessen offers an equally delicious takeaway counter, with their homity pies and chorizo sausage rolls a firm favourite. Browse a range of local and regional items, from cheeses and homemade chutneys, along with luxury items from our Europeans neighbours making a wonderful edible souvenir for any occasion.

Drinking

Cornwall’s rich countryside and coastline is home to a number of well-known distilleries and craft breweries, including the likes of Tarquin’s and Verdant Brewing Co. Nestled amongst the quirky shops of Causeway Head lies Pocketful of Stones Distillery and Bar, founded in 2016 after the creation of their first Caspyn dry gin. Inspired by the wild landscape and Cornish folklore, the company began to venture into a realm of new, handcrafted flavours, from Lost Mexican el Café agave (a coffee-liqueur), Morveren Absinthe and Dr.Squid Ink Gin, housed in an attractive copper flask with intricate engraving. Distillery tasting tours are held Monday-Saturday at 12pm and 3pm, whilst the bar opens Friday and Saturday evenings, with occasional appearances from Neapolitan-inspired Pizza Roja. 

Savour fine beverages beneath the rustic beams of The Admiral Benbow Inn, a heritage-status pub believed to be the inspiration behind Robert Stephenson’s Treasure Island. Inside the 17th century establishment, the walls and ceilings are embellished with all things maritime, with seating reminiscent of a true pirate ship. Just next door resides The Turks Head, the oldest pub in the town at over 800 years old. Promising old world décor and a secret garden with botanicals and palms – this historic establishment is charming all year round. 

Cocktail connoisseurs will adore The Crumb, where you’ll find vibrant interiors and indulgent small plates – all served beside a selection of sophisticated liquor-based refreshments. For those looking for a cosy spot to unwind with a pot of tea and something sweet, The Orangery nestled in Penlee Park is a quintessential corner to retreat for an hour or two with a newspaper.

Things to do

For those in pursuit of oceanside ambles, venture to Penzance’s promenade. Dating back to the Victorian era, the promenade is set between The Jubilee Pool and Newlyn and is a magical setting to revel in sunrises and sunsets. Receiving a revitalising makeover following the securing of government funding, the promenade is now bustling with skateboarders and rollerbladers, as well as a number of delicious local mobile catering businesses.  

Salt-kissed dips await within the refreshing waters of the Jubilee Pool, the UK’s largest, beautifully restored art deco outdoor lido. First opened in 1935, you’ll find both the main saltwater pool which is filled at high tide, as well as the one and only geothermally heated pool in the UK. A trip is not complete without a stop in the sauna – a truly authentic Nordic experience. If you’d prefer to admire the glistening waves whilst remaining dry, Battery Rocks behind the pool is a dream-worthy spot for reading on the water’s edge. 

Take a walk through Morrab Gardens, a sub-tropical paradise with a walled garden, originally built in 1841. A dreamy scene to wander through on frosted autumn days but even more heavenly for summer picnics, be sure to peek into the Victorian library and browse their collection of 70,000 books and vast collection of local photography. 

Discover further green spaces up little up the road in Penlee Park, complete with a playpark and a selection of tennis courts. Alongside the Penlee House Gallery and Museum which celebrates the rich history of West Cornwall, you’ll also find the open-air theatre which has been open since 1948. Over the years the theatre has welcomed a range of ethereal art performances from both Cornish and international entertainers. 

A short drive through winding country lanes of the town leads to The Tremenheere Sculpture Gardens, a dog-friendly space promising tropical foliage-framed vistas of St Michael’s Mount and a beautifully landscaped grounds to wander. Filled with contemporary installations by internationally renowned artists including James Turrell’s ‘Skyspace’ chamber where you can admire clouds dancing by. 

Shopping

Penzance promises an assortment of eclectic, independent shops throughout the market town. Whether you’re seeking antique stores or retro clothing boutiques, it’s no secret that amongst the characterful, listed buildings of Chapel Street you’ll find the majority.

Endless treasures await within Faded Vintage, a divine space promising rustic, antique homeware pieces ranging from divine French oil paintings of cherubs and religious idols, to distressed tables topped with Italian confit pots housing dried bouquets. Discover an ethereal selection of Persian rugs in eastofhere, where a never-ending array of carpets and soft furnishings in a symphony of jewel colours are draped in every available corner. Handworked at No.64 primarily sells handmade clothing designed in their own atelier, alongside ceramics from local craftspeople. Peruse a luxurious range of organic skincare in Pure Nuff Stuff, set on the ground floor shop of Grade I listed Egyptian House, promising an ornate architectural style you won’t find anywhere else in Cornwall. 

Causeway Head is home to The Old Farmhouse Jewellery Shop, where you can find their stunning, hand-textured jewellery amongst a variety of prints and other home accessories. Here also awaits Cornwall’s first permanent jewellery bar, where you’ve the option to get your very own welded forever bracelets and anklets. Discover independent contemporary designer clothing store Seven Stones, where you can browse quality clothing, photography books and an array of luxury fragrances. 

Wherever your Penzance pondering takes you, uncover our collection of luxury cottages in West Cornwall here...